Hacked Gadgets Forum

November 29, 2014

Mechanical Light Switch Timer Teardown and Repair

at 4:06 pm. Filed under Repair, Teardown

Inside a Mechanical Timer Switch_8766

 

Ever wonder what marvelous things were inside a Mechanical Light Switch Timer? Me neither, but I had one go bad on me and I was curious what caused the failure. Turned out a tiny piece of plastic cause the failure. This could have been built just the tiniest bit beefier and it would still be working. To see the below pictures in hi-res click here.

 

 

 


 

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7 Responses to “Mechanical Light Switch Timer Teardown and Repair”

  1. Annie Says:

    Same technique used for microwave oven interlock repair 🙂

  2. Alan Parekh Says:

    Good to know if I am ever brave enough to repair a microwave oven. Without the proper training that might be an bad accident waiting to happen though!

  3. Max Says:

    Microwave interlocks are normally nothing more complicated that a a simple switch. It takes exactly as much training to fix one as it takes to fix a faulty flashlight, as long as it’s unplugged while you’re working on it. Of course, these days, if it doesn’t say “ARDUINO” on the package…

  4. Annie Says:

    Interlocks are really safe to work on, if the power source is removed :p If a switch is bypassed it blows the fuse (or the switch) when power is returned. If you are thinking of th HV cap, since it didn’t get power for a while and most have an internal bleeder resistor chances are low but you are better off using an external one to be sure. More recent have an inverter based HV power supply. In fact CRT televisions are shocking 😉 Also if you make this kind of axis repair, use heat to drive the pin in after you have cut the remaining plastic to replace.

  5. Alan Parekh Says:

    Thanks for the info Max and Annie. I was thinking of heating up the new metal rod and forcing it into place. I was just thinking with my luck I would end up burning myself by accident. Never worked on a CRT TV and don’t ever plan to!

  6. Annie Says:

    If you use SMD or resistance soldering tweezers no force is needed, when the pin gets hot it will enter easily the plastic.

  7. Alan Parekh Says:

    That is a good tip, I will give it a try next time!

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