Hacked Gadgets Forum

February 19, 2011

Toner Transfer Galvanic Etched Custom Audio Panel

at 11:26 am. Filed under Insane Equipment

toner-transfer-galvanic-etched-custom-audio-panel_15


Getting a finished look on custom gear is always hard. If it was made in your basement it usually shows. Rabbisu demonstrates how it is possible to make a great looking custom audio panel using the toner transfer and galvanic etching method on some metal panels. The results look great, the only thing I would change is that the dials would all go to 11. Check out the gallery for some more great pictures of the Toner Transfer Galvanic Etched Custom Audio Panel.

Thanks for the tip George.



 

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7 Responses to “Toner Transfer Galvanic Etched Custom Audio Panel”

  1. Scott Says:

    The results would be so much better and easier if he used DecalProFX for the transfers.

  2. George Johnson Says:

    I could NEVER get the TTS method to work. I tried everything I could think of, but just nothing works for me.

    I just gave up, I will not try the TTS method any more, I wasted enough time on it.

    I’m glad this works for him, but I’m not going for it. I’ll use LASER printed decals or something.

  3. sp00nix Says:

    Sweet 240!

  4. svofski Says:

    @Geroge Johnson: try using photoresist. You’ll need an UV lamp and a developer, but the results are going to be very reliable.

  5. mosheen Says:

    I had fits with my toner transfer until I did two things. I threw out my worn out laser printer, and got one with a good drum, and I stopped using an iron and started using a laminater. I have a %100 success rate now. If you have little pin holes all over your board, it’s the printer, and if you have lifts in random spots when peeling, it’s the heating.

  6. mosheen Says:

    One other thing. Kinkos sells glossy blank magazine paper. It is the absolute best paper for transfer. It’s a little pricey at about 10 cents a sheet, but for the consistency, and the way it melts under water, it’s worth it.

  7. George Johnson Says:

    I’ve been using MG Chemicals non-UV presensitized boards for making PCB’s, and they’re GREAT! All you need is a standard fluorescent lamp to expose them with. (and the LASER printer transparencies of your layout of course).

    Thanks for the ideas, but I’ve got something that works great (nice fine pitch) and I’m not about to try the toner again, for anything)

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