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Surface mount rework stations are very expensive, Openschemes shows us that it is possible to perform Surface Mount Component Removal using a Heat Gun. "Now it doesn’t matter much WHICH heat gun you use, although it should be able to produce a good bit of air at >300C. In our experience, long heating times due to using a weaker gun are the biggest cause of PCB burn, bulge, or trace peel. |
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October 19th, 2009
Use kapton tape to shield surrounding components
October 20th, 2009
TiVo PROM hack in progress?
October 20th, 2009
I’ve used this method several times on a laptop that wouldn’t flash the BIOS properly. I had to remove the PROM to reprogram it. I ended up getting a new board for it because I burned the board while trying to get solder on one of the places to melt.
October 20th, 2009
[...] Surface Mount Component Removal regulating a Heat Gun – Hacked Gadgets … [...]
October 22nd, 2009
i’ve been doing this for awhile now, but you have to watch out for burning the board up or worse, burn the chip you’re trying to get. I was trying to get a smd mini usb off a razr for another proj and ended up melting the plastic inside. *DUR*
June 5th, 2011
if you use this methode apply some capsule to the heat gun to only unsolder the bios chip but be aware that heat can burn the chip i have a solder station and when unsoldering a chip from an amiga i unsolder it right solder a plcc socket and when put the same chip on the socket never waked up i am waiting now for a new and hope it was just the chip that fried inside because you won´t see any damage sign from out chip greetins from Portugal
June 6th, 2011
There are quite a few things wrong with this picture, and worst of all is that the PCB is not removed from the case! This is a recipe for disaster – melted wire being an obvious one. Also, most (good) heat guns come with a variety of nozzles and using a heat gun without a flat nozzle is not a good idea. At least with the flat nozzle you can somewhat control the direction of the hot air flow. There are usually also reducer nozzles of various kind in there – no reason to heat this much area if all you need is one chip. Just use a reducing nozzle.
And lastly, one will do much better by trying to cover the rest of the components with a heat-resistant material. I just happen to have some mineral wool sheets for that but I’d think anything that does not get burned itself and helps to deflect the hot air away from the parts you’re NOT working one, will do. For example, looks like some sheet steel or sheet aluminum from old CD/DVD-rom drives should do a good job protecting materials you don’t want de-soldered.