Bard Johansen from Norway didn’t want a loud cooling fan operating while his laptop was playing movies. How can this be solved? Install a Waldic (water & air laptop direct input cooler). On a side note, have a look at the last picture… If anyone has a Toshiba L10 laptop screen that they are not needing drop Bard a line.

“The bottom copper part is the business end of this device. It is hand made out of sheet copper plating approximately 0.8 mm (1/32 in) thick. The “fins” are cut with a pair of regular scissors, drilled, and inserted with a length of copper tubing. When aligned properly, it’s secured by soldering together the tube and plates. The actual soldering was done on a hot stove. The upper aluminum part is a standard copper core heatsink from a P4 3.2 GHz boxed processor. It is also (because of its massive heat dissipation properties) soldered with the “stove” method. It should be mentioned that the top is only “active” when the Waldic is used in “air mode”. Further improvements will include a closed tank that fits under the laptop. According to my experiments a closed small tank is more than enough to keep this laptop really cool. It’s all about Wattage per surface area. The bilge pump could be replaced with a smaller one and hooked directly up to the internal fan supply or via a simple 5V USB hack. This particular “12V” pump is running 1.5 Volts and is barely audible.”