You can either make this toxic barrel pop-up or purchase it from the designer.

“Industrial air cylinder will be driven by pneumatic valve plumbed to 25psi compressed air. Attachment to PVC cap to hold lid in place. PVC goes through center of styrofoam head with caps on both ends to hold head in place. I detailed the mask with glow-in-the-dark paints to highlight it under blacklight illumination. Final assembly with flourescent signs. The printed out the signs and then used neon or GID paint to highlight the sign.”

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This project shows the creation of a large array of UV LEDs. They are used to expose a presensititised blank circuit board. Another common method is to use UV tubes. Alfredo has translated it to English as well as he could (English is not his first language). This is great since for some reason the good old Google translator could not do much with it. Thanks Alfredo!
"Why if we make PCBs under 160×100mm we need to use big insolators size legal or A4? We can make an insolator box little, portable,cheap and really cool. We are going to use UV leds with wavelength of 400nm that are the most indicated for our presensibilited PCBs for its high component of UV and nearest to visible light spectrum ( an important part of actinic light ). Usual 6w UV tubes seems that provides more UV power than leds UV of about 60mw, but not all power in UV tubes is light intensity, the most power is disipated as heat. We used to make the isolation box: 54 UV leds buyed from E-bay for about 15 $ 18 resistors 68ohms, 1/4Watt for 0,60 $ 1 two pole connector for about 0,85 $ 1 Electrolitic capacitor of 2200uF and 30v recover from a F.A. 1 Eurocard presensibilized PCB of 160×100mm The insolator is powered with 12Vcc. Leds goes in groups of 3 conected in serial with a resistor of 68 ohms. As the cone light angle of LEDs is 20º, we need a box that have about 80 mm of height to put the leds in a grid of 18mm. We have founded a metal box with 85 mm of height in a chinesse bazar for about 12$ that is perfect for the project. Later, we proceed soldering the leds on PCB. It’s very important that the leds are perfectly vertical to PCB.You can see this great solder job!!! After of solder process, we applied 12Vcc to PCB and… voila!!! Warning!!! Don’t see directly to the UV leds!!! We changed 5 leds that don’t brighted than others. Next we buyed a glass cutted in a form to put into Box for about 1,5$ and put a piece of foam on box cover for tight the PCB with glass for a good insolation without shadows. You can see a PCB made with this insolator box with 6 minutes of exposure. The best thing taht you can make with this portable insolator is that you can bring it at your friend’s home for make little elctronic projects. The next thing to do is a timer with LCD ,4 buttons and PWM intensity UV control for don’t flame some strange PCBs."

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This technology allows everyday items such as a chalkboard to become interactive.

“Sensitive Object attempts particularly to make day to day objects interactive by proposing man-machine interfaces (MMI) that are particularly innovative, which use the sense of touch and adapt to all forms of electric or electronic commands (switches, pushbuttons, keyboard keys, control panels…)”

Will this be our future movie and music collection interface? I sure hope so! The people at Natural Interaction are sure creating some interesting software.

“A natural interaction interface to organize and navigate contents such as images, movies and audio. Make sure to have the speakers turned on! It uses only the left mouse button, mouse motion, arrow keys, save (s) and rewind (r) keys. Useful for astonishing presentations. Content is presented in a minimal, seamless and aesthetically pleasant way. This is our vision of the relationship between humans and media. The interface is persistent, i.e. you can save the full state of it, and recover this state as you restart the interface. Simplicity instead of complexity. Imagine it as a presentation tool or an innovative media player. On http://naturalinteraction.org you can request to download it and test. The grid arrangement allows *everyone* to feel confident with the interface, and even empty spaces get a meaning.”

Thanks Alex

Cory, Zach and Summer created the iTunes Jukebox , it represents a fun way to allow party guests to play their favorite tunes.

“Take one of the “cartridges” (an electronically enhanced jewel case), and insert it in an empty slot in the iTunes Jukebox (an electronically enhanced CD tower). The tower is connected to the iTunes software on your computer, and as soon as you insert a jewel case, the song or set of songs associated with that case begins to play.

There are 8 available slots in the tower. You can place a case into any or all of the slots in the tower. When you do, the music associated with each case will play in order starting from the top slot in the iTunes Jukebox.

The project was developed to provide a nice group interface to iTunes that is intended for a party situation when you a) don’t really want people fiddling with your computer and b) want to encourage your guests to take an active part in collaboratively choosing the music to play.”

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On the look for a new project? Why not take an old console gaming system and make it portable. That is exactly what Ben Heckendorn did with the old Jaguar console.

“First off the cartridge slot had to be moved. There’s been several projects like this where I haven’t bothered to change the cartridge slot (SNES portable, Neo Geo) but this I swore I would. Using solder braid for the first time (hard to believe but it’s true) I managed to remove the connector and rewire it with only minimal damage to the small pins. The cartridge slot on the Jag is fairly similar to a computer’s PCI slot. I noticed the cartridge itself only used about half the pins, but I wired them all up anyway. Why not?”

Via: Make

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Bard Johansen from Norway didn’t want a loud cooling fan operating while his laptop was playing movies. How can this be solved? Install a Waldic (water & air laptop direct input cooler). On a side note, have a look at the last picture… If anyone has a Toshiba L10 laptop screen that they are not needing drop Bard a line.

“The bottom copper part is the business end of this device. It is hand made out of sheet copper plating approximately 0.8 mm (1/32 in) thick. The “fins” are cut with a pair of regular scissors, drilled, and inserted with a length of copper tubing. When aligned properly, it’s secured by soldering together the tube and plates. The actual soldering was done on a hot stove. The upper aluminum part is a standard copper core heatsink from a P4 3.2 GHz boxed processor. It is also (because of its massive heat dissipation properties) soldered with the “stove” method. It should be mentioned that the top is only “active” when the Waldic is used in “air mode”. Further improvements will include a closed tank that fits under the laptop. According to my experiments a closed small tank is more than enough to keep this laptop really cool. It’s all about Wattage per surface area. The bilge pump could be replaced with a smaller one and hooked directly up to the internal fan supply or via a simple 5V USB hack. This particular “12V” pump is running 1.5 Volts and is barely audible.”

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